Hiking, History and Street Art on Namhae Island in Hallyeohaesang National Park
Namhae Island in Hallyeohaesang National Park sits among a sea of 76 other islands scattered off the southern coast of South Korea.
The island offers a pleasant mix of sandy beaches, rocky mountain trails, whimsical art towns and manicured gardens. The island has a few unique cultural assets, as well. Bamboo poles aligned in a v-shaped fan poke up from the sea floor, showcasing a style of fishing called Jukbangryeom that is unique to Namhae. In Gacheon Daraengi Village, terraced rice fields (uncommon in Korea) cascade down the rocky coastal cliffs.
Gacheon Daraengi Village
In Gacheon Daraengi Village (가천 다랭이 마을), steep terraced fields slope down to the sea and colorful rooftop paintings invite travelers peering down from the highway overlook to explore the small hamlet. Put your walking shoes on because the narrow streets are steep! But the calf stretch is worth it to see the artwork along the town's walls! Gacheon Village is part of a rural revitalization effort run by the Korean Ministry for Food, Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries (MIFAFF), which aims to help farmers and rural villagers boost economic productivity through tourism. The program revitalizes rural villages and rewards them for preserving culture and beauty. At sea level, boardwalks and swinging bridges provide access along the rocky shore.
Hiking Silk Mountain to Boriam Temple
Korean words often have chinese roots. The term "geum" 금 can mean gold 金 or it can mean silk 錦, depending on the original chinese character. In this case, the chinese character for silk is used. Geum San 錦山 = Silk Mountain (not gold). Although Korea's mountains are not particularly high, hiking in Korea is never easy. Instead of paths that zig-zag at a gradual rate of ascent, trails in Korea often go straight UP. The hand-hewn rock staircase in Geumsan is no exception. It's quite a workout, but the view from the double-rainbow cave (쌍홍문, "ssang hong mun") makes all the blood, sweat and tears worth it!
Now shhhh…. Listen closely. Chanting monks will beckon hikers just a little further up to Boriam Temple, one of the holiest temples in Korea. Believed to have been built by Buddhist monk Wonhyo in the Shilla period (sometime before 935 A.D.), many of the Buddhist artifacts here were transported by ship from India by an Indian Queen. The actual remains of the Buddha are believed to be buried below the 3-story pagoda; it's said that a compass placed on the pagoda cannot locate the direction. Mysterious!
From Boriam, a few hundred more yards through a bamboo forest takes you to the summit, which opens up with a 360 degree view. This area is called Mang Dae (망대) or Observation Tower, used for centuries as a signaling station.
Yi Su Shin Museum
Yi Su Shin (1545-1598 A.D.) arguably ranks among the world's most brilliant naval officers. He never lost a single battle and is credited with saving Korea from numerous Japanese assaults during the reign of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, including the most famous Battle of Myongnyang during the Imjin War that pitched Yi's 13 korean "turtle" ships (거북선, "geobukseon") against 130 traditional Japanese ships! The turtle ship was the world's first iron-clad ship, developed 300 years before iron-clads achieved widespread use during America's Civil War in the 1860's! Yi is credited with designing the turtle ship.
The Yi Su Shin museum in Namhae is excellent! Wall panels in Korean, Japanese, Chinese and English provide a chronological description of Yi's life and battles. The 3-D movie with English subtitles brings the drama to life. The museum also features numerous exhibits of the ships, weaponry, and military attire. As you exit the rear of the museum and look out across the bay, you can imagine the ships lined up in battle formation, the smell of smoke, the roar of cannons! Thrilling!
