Driving from Busan, Geoje is the first of many islands in Hallyeohaesang National park. Thanks to the opening of the Geoga Bridge in 2010, what used to be a three hour ferry trip now takes just 40 thrilling minutes. Traveling west from Busan, the road to Geoje Island plunges into the world's deepest underwater tunnel, then climbs sharply back into the sunshine halfway across the bay onto a gleaming suspension bridge. From there, the road zigzags along craggy sea cliffs, past tiny fishing hamlets, and through colorful tunnels. A visual delight!

Oe Island

After crossing into Geoje, an excursion to Oe Island (외도, "Way-do") is a must-do. Oe Island was once just one of many uninhabited, barren islands along the country's craggy southern coastline. An ambitious couple had a vision and some major talent, transforming the tiny island into a botanical paradise that is now open to the public.

The unguided walking tour takes exactly two hours (or the ferry leaves without you!), winding through tropical trees, manicured topiaries, radiant flower gardens, grecian statues and playful sculptures. Palm fronds intermingle with hollies, tall ferns, and the occasional orchid. A wall of tightly packed junipers towers high, separating into whimsical cone shapes. Salty sea air blows through a cluster of bare trunks capped with mushroom-shaped evergreen arbors. Here and there are statues: a naked archer pulls mightily on an invisible bow string and further ahead stands a weathered stone deer, unaware of his fate.

Passing a row of regal palms, the trail enters the first of many themed garden spaces. Bushes are meticulously pruned and shaped, with exquisite attention to detail. Not a branch strays from the care-takers design. A shady seating area under a mass of rounded hedges makes a nice picnic spot. Flowering cacti of all shapes and sizes adorn this sunny slope, sharing the space with tropical trees and deciduous plants.

The main attraction is the European-style Venus Garden. On the far end sits the couple's Mediterranean villa. A circular walking path surrounds zig-zagging rows of neatly trimmed hedges and flowering bushes. On the opposite end, bright red roses encircle giant marble columns and a dozen greco-roman maidens adorn the terrace overlooking the stunning blue waters of the South Sea.

Venus Garden lies at the base of a spectacular hillside garden known as the Stairway to Heaven, with its terraces of colorful flowers and fanciful ornaments. Stiff pointed cypress and junipers stand in blankets of yellow, orange, and red. Giant bursts of pink azaleas and blue and purple hydrangeas surround artfully-shaped topiaries. Soft choir-style music serenades from hidden speakers.

The trail ducks into a bamboo forest and exits a few yards later into a wide open field with modern sculptures and statues made of clay, steel, wood, marble, and more. A tiny chapel draws visitors in for a thoughtful prayer. We listened to the waves crash into the seaside cliffs, felt the cool breeze picking up energy, then dutifully returned to the dock on time for departure. Oedo is accessible by ferry from six different ports in Geoje Island. Admission fee to Oedo is about $8.00 per adult.

Hakdong Pebble Beach

Back on Geoje Island, strolling along the smooth stones of Hakdong Pebble Beach is like a free reiki massage, relieving pressure points and restoring peace of mind. The sound of tumbling pebbles as the waves retreat is soothing ambiance. There are food and game stands at Pebble Beach or you can rent a colorful shade tent under which to lounge away the day. The sound alone is worth the stop, regardless of time spent here.

Haegeumgang Cliff Walk

Along the coast of Geoje Island winds Haegeumgang Road, which terminates at a cliffside walking path that leads down to a secluded cove. The expansive view resembles Big Sur in California, with crashing waves tossing frothy sea foam high onto the rocky cliffs. It's the perfect spot for a jump shot!

As the sun descended and the shadows lengthened, our driver took us on a harrowing, bumpy journey up a single-lane dirt road to a mountaintop overlook. We watched the procession of shrimp and fish boats return to port, greeting the squid catchers heading out for night duty. In the darkness, we took the Tongyeong-Daejeong expressway #35, returning to the mainland.