Day Hike: Trail #19 at Lago di Braies
Base Town: Dobbiaco in Val Pusteria South Tyrol, Transport to Trailhead: Tourist Bus #442
Lago di Braies (Pragser Wildsee) is a gorgeous lake in Fanes-Sennes-Braies National Park - and one of the most popular attractions in the Italian Dolomites. Its turquoise surface mirrors the blue sky, puffs of floating white clouds, and the immense face of Croda del Becco (Seekofel).
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A two mile (very crowded) trail loops around its shoreline, but we wanted something a little more heart-pumping and secluded. We consulted with Sandra and Andres at Park Hotel Bellevue in Dobbiaco, who recommended a loop trail starting at the far end of the lake, heading up Val di Foresta. From Hotel Lago di Braies, we set out counter-clockwise along the lake path to the small beach just below Croda del Becco. There, we hooked a right onto Path #19 and ascended the river valley, passing lazy cows grazing in the shade of pines. We encountered no other people until we reached Malga Foresta Hut, where a lively group of families wined and dined outside in the sunshine.
Path #19 Val Foresta, Malga Foresta Hut
The colorful path enlivened with wildflowers continued along easily until Altkaser Alm, a small cottage in a broad grassy field at the end of the river valley. From there, we entered the pines and began a pretty aggressive climb on a narrow, rocky trail, emerging shortly with hearts pumping onto a wide tree-less path with expansive views of the surrounding mountains.
We crested the ridge and were surprised to see a lively farm sprawled across the col below. We couldn’t resist pausing for a coffee and streudel at the Fojedöra family’s outdoor cafe. Four rambunctious piglets raced through the mud and buttercups; a couple of machismo goats practiced head butting; chickens clucked, pecking grains; high on the hill, a farmer and his partner shepherded a heard of cows. What an idyllic setting to live and work!
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Our caffein boost helped fuel us up the steep concrete roadway and onto a narrow path winding upwards over a grassy pasture. Upon arriving at the junction to our sought-after trail fork, we discovered that our intended route was closed due to previous landslide activity. Consulting our map, we chose a new course, backtracking to a dirt road that climbed towards a pass. Accompanied by a few cows sauntering in the same direction, we passed verdant grazing pastures littered with limestone and stubby pines. Cow bells tinkled, bright sunshine warmed our skin.
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At the top of the pass, we veered left along a crushed limestone path towards the jagged peaks in the distance; we were looping back and Lago di Braies lay somewhere in the valley below. The highlight of this hike came as we approached the descent. We arrived at a wooden fence protecting a steep drop off, with the full glory of the Fanes-Sennes-Braies mountain cluster spread before us.
Fanes-Sennes-Braies National Park
Who could resist this descent trail back to Lago di Braies?? Pretty yellow flowers and an innocent-looking slope beckoned us onwards…
Descending back to Lago di Braies
Past the beguiling wildflowers, however, the trail plunged steeply into the pine forest, becoming rocky and a bit treacherous. We picked our way slowly and carefully downward until the trail flattened a bit, crossing a broad scree field at the base of the mountain.
The loop came full circle back at the Altkaser Alm cottage. We then followed trail #19 back to Malga Foresta Hut, where we sheltered under some pine trees for a brief passing shower before finishing the hike back at Lago di Braies. This hike wildly exceeded our expectations. We love the challenge and harsh terrain of a via ferrata, but a comfortable amble through bucolic Alpine pastures was a real treat! Nearby one of the Dolomite’s most iconic tourist attractions, we had peace and solitude most of the day. Later in our trip, Lago di Braies marked the termination point of another fabulous hike originating in Prato Piazza. On two occasions, we were able to see the lake, experience the loop trail and snap the requisite photos — but avoid crowds and get our hearts pumping. For us, this was the ideal way to experience Lago di Braies.
