Hiking, Kaiseki, and Hot Springs in Yufuin and Beppu, Kyushu
During our 3 week road trip across Kyushu, we left Unzen National Park by ferry, crossing the Ariake Bay to Kagoshima. We rented a car in Kagoshima and drove to Yufuin and Beppu on the eastern side of Kyushu. This area is a popular tourist destination for hot springs - especially in the winter! We stayed a couple of nights in Yufuin to hike Mt. Yufu and explore Lake Kinrin, then met C’s sister and brother-in-law in Beppu for another two nights of kaiseki indulgence and a hike at Mt. Tsurumi.
Yufuin: Hiking at Yufudake
Mount Yufu (Yufudake) towers over the small city of Yufuin in eastern Kyushu. It’s called the “Fuji of Oita” due to its symmetrical cone shape. There are several hiking trails from the town of Yufuin to the mountain summit at 1,583 meters (5,194 feet). We took the most popular trailhead at Yufu Tozanguchi, which was about a 10 minute drive from the center of town. The air was brisk, with a breeze and dark clouds, as we tread across the golden grasslands at the base of Mount Yufu. The weather didn’t look promising, but we headed up the long slope in a light mist toward the tree line. Ducking into the woods, we followed a well-worn trail over exposed tree roots.
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As we steadily climbed, the scenery transitioned from bare brown trees and clay dirt to a winter wonderland of crystal rime ice, which coated everything in a blanket of sparkling white. Winter’s reward!
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The first notable landmark was the Futago Split, where the path divides into two routes leading to the mountain's dual peaks—East Peak (Higashi-mine) and West Peak (Nishi-mine). Due to the cold precipitation, we chose the West Peak route to avoid icy conditions on the scramble at the top. Total hike time to the summit was about 2.5 hours. On the return trip, we hooked right at the base of Mt. Yufu for another climb up a short, tree-less hill. The views of the surrounding landscape and town were worth the additional steep ascent!
We had dinner at a tiny yakiniku grill bar in town. We sat at the counter (sushi-style) and chose from a broad selection of bite-sized seafood, meats, and other interesting options. The chef grilled to perfection, serving in small portions to accompany our hot sake and beers. Toasty, warm, and inviting!
Notice the names and dates written on the bottles above in the picture. In Japan, customers who frequently go to a favorite bar can purchase a large size bottle of sake and sip a few glasses over time; the barkeeper stores each customers’ bottle for the duration of time it takes for the customer to finish it. Love the concept, as it encourages return visits and (potentially) drinking moderation.
Yufuin’s Lake Kinrin
Another popular tourist spot in Yufuin is Lake Kinrin. The name "Kinrin" translates to "golden scales," a title bestowed in the 19th century by Confucian scholar Mori Kuso, who observed the scales of a fish shimmering like gold in the lake's waters at sunset. A distinctive feature of Lake Kinrin is the convergence of hot and cold springs that feed into it, maintaining a warm temperature year-round. This unique combination often results in ethereal morning mists, especially during autumn and winter. To avoid the crowds, we visited in late morning, after the mists had cleared. Although a bit crowded, we enjoyed the peaceful reflections of Mt. Yufu on Lake Kinrin’s surface and the small prayer shrine and tori gate tucked into a cove on the far side of the lake.
The path back to town is lined with shops and attention-seeking eateries hawking trendy “new” foods. We had fun trying various nibbles and discovering up-and-coming shoe brands.
Beppu: Hot Spring Town
Continuing on our Kyushu adventure, we drove about 30 minutes from Yufuin to Beppu, rendezvousing with Caffrey’s sister and brother-in-law for a few more days of spa time and kaiseki with family. Beppu, reknowned for its abundant geothermal hot springs, has evolved over the centuries from an ancient healing site to a modern onsen tourist hub. As early as 1200 A.D., wounded samurai warriors were sent to Beppu for healing and recovery in the town’s mineral-rich thermal wells. Today, Beppu boasts nearly 3,000 hot spring vents, discharging more than 130,000 tons of hot spring water daily (ranking second only to Yellowstone National Park, according to Wikipedia).
Beppu onsen town in Oita Province, Kyushu, Japan
From a low hilltop in town, we could see steam billowing from the old town onsen area. Some of these onsen date back centuries and differentiate themselves by offering proprietary herbal healing concoctions, massages, and other soothing treatments. One of the most popular hot spring attractions in Beppu is known as the “Hells of Beppu” (I guess kinda like the Hells of Jigoku in Unzen National Park). Unlike the Hells of Jigoku, which are free to the public, the Hells of Beppu are privately-owned and there is a hefty entrance fee to see the colorful boiling pools. We passed on that one, since we had already been to Unzen National Park. Strolling around Beppu, though, there are plenty of opportunities to just dip your feet and legs into FREE open-access foot baths — aaahhh!
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We stayed in a ryokan featuring private geothermal baths in each room, in addition to a larger shared guest bath. From our own private steam bath, we enjoyed Beppu’s vivid sunsets before heading down for an extensive kaiseki spread. Luxurious!
Beppu: Hiking at Mt. Tsurumi
The sister mountain to Yufuin’s Yufudake is Mt. Tsurumi in Beppu. There is a cable car to its summit, but we chose the sweatier route via a trailhead just down the road from the cable car depot. The trail initially climbs a paved road to a small temple area; the more rugged trail to the summit starts behind the shrine. It was pretty muddy and steep.
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The summit area has a lot to offer and is definitely worth a visit - whether by cable car or by foot. There is a well-maintained foot path winding past shrines to various deities, with signs in English. You are sure to find a god for any need! The views from the cable car station are incredible, providing an expansive view of Beppu and the sea. On the opposite side of the summit from the cable car, Mt. Yufu is in full view. On the left side of Yufudake’s peak is the little triangle shaped rock scramble at the top.
View of Yufudake from Mt. Tsurumi in Beppu, Oita, Japan
After several days of luxurious hot spring baths and kaiseki, we said goodbye to our family as they headed back to Korea and we continued our Winter Kyushu Roadtrip… next stop, Takachiho’s picturesque gorge and a thrilling active volcano hike in Aso-Kuju National Park…
